22 SAS Middleton, Edward Mervyn

Craig Robertson

Staff member
Edward Mervyn
  • UNIT
22 SAS
  • RANK
Staff Sergeant
British Empire Medal
born 25.05.1956
25.05.1996 retirement date
London Gazette 51578, 30th December 1988, Page 19


British Empire Medal : Staff Sergeant Middleton has been a prominent member of the Army Mountaineering Association for several years both as an experienced and skilled mountaineer and as a member of the Committee. He is an exemplary and totally professional soldier as well as an outstanding climber.

Over the years he has consistently set an example of commitment, courage and technical knowledge on many expeditions and he has been instrumental in saving a number of lives by his mountain craft. In June and July 1986 in the Andes Mountains in Peru he placed his own life in jeopardy to save others in two separate incidents. The first when he personally treated and evacuated a severe case of cerebal oedema from Mount Alpamayo at 19,000 feet and the second on the South Face of Chacraraju at 20,000 feet when after two days of severe storms with blizzard conditions two officers fell some thousand feet onto a glacier losing much clothing and equipment and suffering severe injury leading to the death of one officer. Despite the appalling conditions and severe danger of avalanche Staff Sergeant Middleton and a companion searched for and found the surviving officer who they subsequently managed to evacuate from the mountain at direct and severe peril to their own lives.

More recently during the 1988 British Services Everest Expedition which climbed to within 250 metres of the summit, his contribution proved crucial on this largest and most demanding of Service Expeditions. He was in the forefront of all three bids on the summit and would have certainly reached the top had the weather been more favourable. It was during this last climb that his personal commitment, sound mountaineering judgement, level headedness and endurance when lives are at risk, was again highlighted when he was caught in an avalanche. Thinking that his leg had been crushed and with great presence of mind, selflessness and intent not to commit others to similar hazards to rescue him he injected his leg with morphine and dragged himself to safer ground where others could help.

Staff Sergeant Middleton is a man of the highest moral standing whose sense of duty, energy and courage has been an inspiration and example to all who have served with him. His service is worthy of the highest official recognition.

Place : Andes Peru, Himalayas Nepal, UK
Date of Action : June 1986 - June 1988
How Employed : Member AMA Expedition Peru 86, Joint Service Expedition Everest 88